Repara una Nintendo Switch 2 espatllada comprada per 250 dòlars
Una Switch 2 que no s’encén amaga un curtcircuit a la placa. La reparació exigeix diagnòstic, microsoldadura i repetir un xip mal muntat.
TronicsFix compra a eBay una Nintendo Switch 2 que no s’encén per 250 dòlars. El paquet inclou la tauleta, els dos Joy-Con 2, la base, el carregador, l’HDMI i els accessoris. Si la reparació funciona, estima que el conjunt val uns 400 dòlars; si no, haurà comprat un lot de recanvis car.
El diagnòstic acaba localitzant un curtcircuit en un component minúscul de la placa. La primera substitució falla per una soldadura incorrecta, però el segon intent elimina el curt i la consola torna a mostrar imatge. El vídeo és també una demostració de per què aquesta reparació no és adequada per començar.
1. Una consola “sense alimentació” amb origen desconegut
A 00:00, Steve obre una caixa malmesa i troba una Switch 2 exteriorment força neta. El venedor assegurava que no s’encenia i que no tenia dany per líquids, però una etiqueta suggereix que podria provenir d’una devolució o d’un lot de salvament.
La pantalla no està trencada i el conjunt sembla complet. En prémer el botó no hi ha cap resposta. Connectada al mesurador USB-C, negocia 15 volts però només consumeix 0,01 amperes. Aquesta lectura indica que alguna part de l’entrada funciona, però que la placa pràcticament no està absorbint energia per arrencar o carregar.
No és encara una prova de la causa. Una bateria descarregada, un port, un circuit de càrrega o una línia interna podrien produir símptomes semblants. Per això el creador obre la consola abans de substituir peces a l’atzar.
2. Desmuntar la Switch 2 exigeix ordre i eines específiques
A 01:23, comença una seqüència llarga de desmuntatge. Primer retira adhesius que amaguen cargols, després combina punta Phillips 00 i punta de tres ales. La tapa posterior surt fent palanca a prop de la ranura preparada per obrir-la i passant amb cura sobre el port USB-C.
Sota la tapa hi ha antenes, cables coaxials, el lector microSD Express, blindatges metàl·lics, pasta tèrmica i el tub de calor. Steve fotografia implícitament l’ordre amb la narració: alguns cargols tenen longituds diferents i els cables flexibles tendeixen a quedar atrapats sota la placa durant el muntatge.
Abans de retirar el dissipador desconnecta la bateria. És un pas essencial perquè manipular la placa amb alimentació pot crear un dany nou. El tub de calor també està enganxat; cal separar-lo sense doblegar-lo.
3. El multímetre troba una línia aparentment en curt
La placa queda exposada a 03:50. No hi ha corrosió ni residus visibles de líquid. El tècnic posa una punta del multímetre a massa i comprova components al voltant d’una zona que, per experiència, associa amb aquest patró de consum.
Un condensador dona continuïtat a terra. Això pot indicar un curtcircuit en qualsevol component connectat a la mateixa línia, no necessàriament en el condensador mesurat. També hi ha circuits de baixa impedància que poden semblar un curt tot i funcionar correctament, una distinció que el mateix vídeo haurà de revisar més tard.
Per continuar cal treure completament la placa: desconnectar altaveus, auriculars i diversos flexos, i retirar sis cargols, un dels quals queda amagat sota una cinta. El diagnòstic de microsoldadura ocupa pocs mil·límetres, però arribar-hi requereix desmuntar gairebé tot l’aparell.
4. Injecció de tensió per localitzar el punt calent
A 06:14, Steve injecta una tensió baixa a la línia afectada i busca quin element s’escalfa. A un volt no detecta res; augmenta gradualment i, prop dels dos volts, localitza un xip petit que genera calor.
La tècnica converteix el curt invisible en un senyal tèrmic, però té risc. La tensió i el límit de corrent han de ser adequats per a la línia; aplicar-ne massa pot destruir components sans. No és el mateix que alimentar la consola normalment i no s’ha de reproduir sense esquema, font limitada i experiència.
Sota el microscopi, el xip no mostra dany exterior. Pot haver fallat internament, així que el retira amb aire calent. En tornar a mesurar, desapareix el curt en diversos punts. Aquesta és una evidència més forta que l’aspecte visual i justifica provar un recanvi.
5. El primer intent crea un problema nou
A 08:16, col·loca un altre xip amb flux i aire calent. La tensió superficial de l’estany hauria de centrar-lo sobre les pistes, però després de refredar la placa el curtcircuit continua.
Steve reconeix que ha accelerat el procés. En retirar la peça descobreix dos contactes pontats per estany. Decideix revisar-la i tornar-la a muntar, tot assenyalant que el procediment correcte seria netejar els contactes i formar boles noves de soldadura de manera controlada.
El segon muntatge tampoc resol immediatament la lectura. Només quan retira el component i deixa refredar del tot la placa confirma que el curt desapareix. A més, corregeix una confusió: una altra família de components del revers és de baixa impedància per disseny i no estava avariada.
6. Un altre recanvi elimina el curt i recupera la imatge
A 13:17, instal·la una segona peça de recanvi. La placa conté diversos components iguals, fet que facilita trobar-ne un en una placa donant, però no elimina la necessitat d’orientar-lo i soldar-lo correctament.
Ara les mesures són coherents: la línia problemàtica deixa d’estar curtcircuitada. Steve munta només els flexos i cargols imprescindibles per fer una prova. En connectar el carregador, el consum puja a 0,3 amperes. La pantalla triga uns segons, però finalment s’encén.
La bateria estava molt descarregada i comença amb una càrrega lenta. Després de deixar-la recuperar, torna a aplicar pasta tèrmica, reinstal·la tub de calor, blindatge, antenes, adhesius i tapa. Amb els Joy-Con connectats, la consola arrenca i inicia una actualització.
7. La reparació surt a compte, però no és una recepta
El resultat econòmic sembla bo: 250 dòlars de compra davant d’un valor estimat de 400, abans de comptar temps, eines, peces, comissions i risc. El marge desapareixeria fàcilment si el xip no fos l’única avaria o si la pantalla, la bateria o l’emmagatzematge també estiguessin afectats.
La dificultat concorda amb el desmuntatge d’iFixit de la Switch 2, que li atorga un 3 sobre 10 en reparabilitat. Els dos USB-C i el lector de cartutxos estan soldats, la bateria està enganxada i Nintendo no publica recanvis ni manuals per a reparació independent. Hi ha elements modulars, com el ventilador, els altaveus o el lector microSD Express, però una fallada de placa exigeix microsoldadura.
Per a una consola en garantia, la via prudent és el servei oficial. Nintendo ofereix diagnòstic i sol·licitud de reparació; als Estats Units i Canadà indica una garantia de maquinari d’un any amb comprovant, tot i que el dany físic no queda cobert.
Conclusions
La Switch 2 de 250 dòlars torna a funcionar perquè el tècnic combina lectura de consum, comprovació de curts, injecció limitada i càmera tèrmica. No l’arregla “canviant un condensador”, sinó identificant un xip connectat a la línia, corregint una primera soldadura deficient i validant cada pas abans del muntatge complet.
El vídeo també conserva els errors, i això el fa més útil. Confondre baixa impedància amb un curt o crear un pont sota un encapsulat són problemes reals fins i tot per a algú amb experiència. La compra acaba sent rendible, però el valor no és una fórmula per especular amb consoles espatllades: és veure un diagnòstic iteratiu on mesurar bé importa més que endevinar ràpid.
Contrast i context
Fonts consultades
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TronicsFix $250 Broken Switch 2 - Can I Fix It?!
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Nintendo Support Repair/Replacement Information
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Font de treball
Transcripció amb marques de temps
Consulta la transcripció
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0:00
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I bought a broken Nintendo Switch 2 on eBay for only $250. If I can fix it, that's a great deal. If not, it's sort of a waste of money. Let's get it unboxed and see what it looks like. Okay, we got the two joycons, the tablet. This box has seen better days for sure, but the tablet doesn't look too bad. And then we have the grips, these little guys, the dock, the charger, and HDMI cable. Okay, that looks, oh, I was gonna say that looks good. I don't know what that is, or if it has anything to do with this switch to, hopefully not. It supposedly doesn't have liquid damage, but I'm not sure the seller knew that. It had this sticker on it. I believe that means it's returns or salvage. I don't know for sure. Probably somebody in my comment section knows a lot more about that than I do. All right, so the tablet doesn't power on supposedly, but it does have a good screen. I don't see any cracks, that's good. Just try and power it on. Yeah, okay. No power.
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1:04
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Can verify that. All right, well, we know the problem. Well, let's plug in a charger and see what happens. Here we go. We're getting 15 volts and 0.01 amps. I already have an idea what that might be, but I gotta get it torn apart and see if I'm right. I'm gonna start with the most annoying part of any switch to tear down, setting these stickers off. Alright, there's the other one. While I'm here, I'm going to remove these two screws out of each side. I'll be using a Phillips double zero. Now we have one screw in the top, two screws on the bottom, and then two screws under the kickstand, and I'll be using a tripod screwdriver, tripod, or tripod point bit to remove these. Then we can just pry off the back plate. I like to start right here because there's already a little cut out here so that makes it easy to get. I pry to a under. We'll pry over the USB port and then just push up like that and I should come off just like that.
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2:23
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We'll change bits back to the PHW0. I'm going to just start removing screws starting with these two long ones under this antenna up here. And then I'll also remove this foam tape from the heat pipe. Then I'll make it easier to get this metal plate off. Next is the antenna over on the right side. And that whole antenna just comes right off. Then we need to pull up this gray wire right here. Disengage it from the little clips that it's in. Just like that. Now we'll remove this antenna. Three screws in this one. All the same size. Now the two screws holding on the SD card slot. We will not be removing the SD card slot. We will be removing this little bracket though. And then we will unplug it from the board. Sometimes I use my fingernail, but I'm gonna use a pry tool. There we go.
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3:22
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Now we need to disconnect all of the cables. Just like that. And next we need to remove the remaining screws off of the metal plate. And with those four screws removed, we can remove the metal plate. Just going to start pulling up on it. And there we go. Okay, we got some thermal paste here. That's what kind of holds it on. All right, and here's our first look at the board. Everything looks good. No liquid damage. Okay, now if my hunch is correct, these components right here are going to be shorted. So I'm going to put one of my probes on a ground point. Okay, ground point is good. We're going to see if this component is shorted first, and it is. I can't decide if these ones are shorted or not.
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4:21
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This one for sure is. So in order to do the next test, we need to remove the board from the device. To do that, we're first going to remove the heat pipe. There's three screws holding it on. But before we remove those three screws, we're going to disconnect the battery. Make sure there's no power in the board. All right. And now we're going to lift up on the heat pipe. Not yet, because there's four screws. Now that those four screws are removed out of the heat pipe, we're going to pry up on it very gently. There is adhesive on this end holding it down. We're going to be super careful not to bend it as we pry up. Ooh, this one is. This one is really on there. There we go.
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5:09
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Didn't even bend the heat pipe, that's always good. Now we need to remove these two ribbon cables, this ribbon cable, the speaker connectors, this guy, the headphone jack, and this ribbon cable. There's one screw holding on the headphone jack, so we'll remove that screw and then remove the headphone jack. It is quite a long screw, so keep that in mind. Just connect this cable. There we go. I'm going to use a very sharp pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the speaker connectors and pull them out. The rest are the ribbon cables. We have six screws on the board when we need to remove. There's one hiding up under this ribbon cable. We've forgotten that one more than once. With all of those screws removed, we can lift up on the board from over here. There we go. Now we can finish testing the board. But I expect to be the problem is one of the capacitors in this area right here.
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6:20
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To figure out if any of these are bad, I'm going to inject some voltage into the board on this line right here and we'll see what heats up. All right, and here we go, injecting one volt. Oh, nothing gets warm. That's unexpected. Something should get warm. This is a shorter component, so that is strange. Okay? Let's inject more voltage. 1.5 amps, still nothing? Two amps. No. I said amps before, I meant volts. Two volts. Can hear a little bit of noise with this one. Okay, something over there gets warm. Let's see what it is. All right, and here we go.
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7:22
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That little guy right there. Okay, let's look under the microscope and see if we can see any damage on this chip. So this chip right here is the one that was showing the short. I don't see any damage on the outside, but it could be damaged internally. And since nothing else was lighting up, I think we need to remove this and then see if we still have a short. So I'm gonna start up my hotter station and get that component removed and then we'll retest. All right, re-checking for a short. No short. No short. Okay. So none of these pens are shorted. So it could be just this little guy that's shorted out. So I'm going to get a different one and replace it
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8:18
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and we'll see if that fixes it. I've already got some flux already for us. And I'll come in with the replacement chip. Place it about where it needs to be. And he did all up. Now as I'm heating it, the solder is going to melt and should suck that chip right into place. Right where it needs to be. It looks pretty good, but I'm going to add some more flux and heat it up again. Just to make sure. And the flux is just going to help the solder flow. Right. How it needs to. That will just help make sure that all those connections are good underneath that chip. And it looks to be in place, right? Where it needs to be? So now I'm going to let the board cool down and then we'll test it. Okay.
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9:22
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Let's check and see if that short is gone. It is not. Also, just to be clear, these components on the back right here, these are low impedance. So that actually is normal. They seem shorted, but they're not. The capacitors down here, though, those are what should not be shorted. And those are also shorted. So, it is possible that this guy was bad, It's possible that when I installed it, it went on their crooked and shorted out. I think what I'm going to do is remove this again and then we'll do some more testing. Okay, and yeah, unless I remove that chip wrong, these two pins are shorted, this is what happens when you don't do things the way you're supposed to do them. So, I'm going to actually do a proper reball on this chip and hopefully these two pins I've already been shorted and burned the chip out. If I were well-cooked up, but we'll find out.
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10:23
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This is also a tiny chip, so this is going to be pretty difficult to do, but we'll see what we can manage. Alright, first things first. Let's get rid of that short and some of that solder on the board. I'm going to first use my iron to come in here, trying to remove a little bit of it first. I really like being there. Okay. Let's try coming from this side and get a little more heat there. Alright, now we'll use a little bit of WIC. Alright, that doesn't look too bad. Okay, and this chip goes on here. It looks like this is 10 number one. Alright, so let's flip it upside down. Oh, that actually looks really good. Okay, so I don't think that was the problem. Or I don't think we need to do anything there. I think we're fine with the chip. I'm going to make sure we put it on correctly.
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11:33
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Yep, okay. And a little more solder on this. Now the right way to do this is to totally clean these and put new solder balls on. But I think that's actually a good amount of solder for this. So I'm just going to try it as is. Now we see why sometimes this doesn't work for me. All right, there we go. That's about in place. And we'll bring in some heat and heat it all up. I'm gonna sort of hold it in place with my tweezers so that can heat up a little bit. Okay, that looks better and we're still shorted. Okay, with the board all cooled down. Let's see if the short is gone and it is. Okay, so is it this chip? Did I just blow it out when I installed it? I don't know, maybe. Well, let's see if I can find another one we can put there. Okay, and with another one of these chips installed, I'm going to check for short. So one of the nice things is these boards have multiple of those chips. There's one right there.
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13:31
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This is the one I just took. There's also one right there. So there could also be more chips on these boards, but those are the ones I just found just while I was looking around right now. Okay, so let's see if we have a short this should be shorted is that is not this is not All right, okay, well Maybe this chip was the only problem after all and maybe this is just a video Explaining how if you do it right you're more likely to have success So now we need to get this thing installed and see if this switch actually works or not So I'm just going to install this board into the shell and and just hook everything up enough just enough to test But all these cables like to hide out underneath when you're putting these things in So I got to get those all out of here. There we go. Okay, like I said I'm just going to put together enough of this to test it. All right got a couple screws in got some of the ribbon cables installed Now, let's see what happens. When we plug it in, 15, oh, okay, 0.3. Let's see if we get a screen. No, we don't. Oh, there we go. Okay, but I got a letter charge up, and I'll finish putting it all back together, and then we give it a full test.
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15:16
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And it is doing a slow charge. Probably because the battery is so discharged. and then we'll do the rest of the testing. We obviously can't forget this step. There we go. Man, that looks good. And the heat pipe goes right there. In with the metal plate on, all of the Gazentana's hooked up. We can install the back cover and get all those screws in. And of course, the annoying stickers, go on next. Okay, so now that it's all back together, let's hook the Joy-Cons in, see what happens. And it is now updating, of course, but I think it's clear that this switch to is fully fixed and this was a pretty good deal. I only paid $250 for it and it's worth around 400.
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16:31
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If you like this type of video and wanna see me try and fix the first ever broken switch to that I found on eBay, I'll leave the link for that video up on your screen now so you can come hang out with me over there and see if I can fix that one. Thanks so much for watching today, and I hope you have a good one.
