Nintendo Switch 2 per dins: no treguis la pel·lícula de la pantalla i repara-la amb cautela

The OG Nintendo Switch was a great console, but let's be honest. It ended up in the repair shop way too often from things like stick drift, broken USB-C ports, and motherboard-induced charging issues. With the Switch 2, price at $450, you'd hope Nintendo fixed those problems. Did they? Today, I'm tearing it down to find out if they finally upgraded the joysticks and does this still have the same charging issues? Also, how repairable is this when something inevitably goes wrong? And there we go! the switch to these Joycons feels so nice it really brings that switch snapped alive so this device now has two USB-C ports which is a huge point of excitement for me because these fail all the time it also has this wide kickstand which surprisingly doesn't feel as flimsy as I thought it would this should hold up the Joycons themselves now have metal SL and SR buttons but It doesn't really feel like they do. This controller though feels way better in your hands compared to the little mini Nintendo Switch 1 Joycons. Those sucks, but I could actually play with this. This is really nice. This connector over here though, I have some concerns. So apparently it has some give and that's on purpose by Nintendo just in case you know, the Joycon moves around. But after a few years I think this will be a huge point of failure. Only time will tell though. When I'm preparing for tear downs like on this Nintendo Switch, I do so much research, it's hard to remember everything. That's where this guy comes in. It's a credit card size device that's incredibly thin and even has a max H compatible magnetic design letting it easily attach to your phone. It's quickly become essential for my workflow. It's called the plot note and it helps me accurately remember the precise placement of components and key device details. I record all of my research on new devices like the Switch 2 and it's ready for me to use later.

The Mind Map feature in the app makes organizing ideas absolutely effortless. The Ask AI feature is 10 out of 10. It identifies critical points instantly from past recordings. I can ask it stuff to verify claims and it works well using my notes as the source so I know it's accurate. This has 30 hours of continuous recording, 60 days of standby and 64 gigabytes built in storage, allowing me to leave my phone behind. and focus entirely on work with justice device. Privacy issues are an issue when it comes to AI, but plot lets you choose whether you want your data, online, or offline. Honestly, this is one of the few AI tools I found that genuinely helps people. It's crazy that a device this small has so many different functions. Check out plot note in the description. Your brain will thank you. The speakers on this are way better than the switch one you can already tell and I almost forgot There's actually a screen protector built in on this you can barely see it. It's on there really well Nintendo suggested that you don't remove it which is kind of weird But I like to do things that I'm not supposed to so I'm gonna remove it grab the corner and it's coming off Damn we'll just like that didn't happen and

I have removed the screen protector. So this is just a plastic screen protector. And I think it's so that if the glass breaks underneath, nothing comes off the screen. So nobody gets cut or anything like that. Because Nintendo actually use plastic in their first generation for their screen. So it's scratch really easily, but it wouldn't shatter. This one can shatter. So the plastic, I guess it's there to keep everything in. Kind of strange, but if that's how Nintendo wants to do it, that's how they're going to do it. Before I tear this down, there is one thing I want to test out. And we're at the home screen so obviously the first thing I have to try is the new mouse feature that they added they have optical sensors on the actual JoyCon which allows you to use it like a mouse but to do that you need to add this attachment this just has rubber pads so you're not scratching everything we'll slap this on just clicks right in oh damn that's really smooth I wouldn't want to hold it like this for more than like 5-10 minutes it's just super uncomfortable on your palm But it's a very cool feature and I wonder how games will utilize it. Anyway, that's enough of that. The first thing we're actually going to tear down is the JoyCon because with the first gen, yeah, this one had a lot of issues. Stick drift, connectivity issues. All sorts of things and it pissed a lot of people off. So we're hoping that Nintendo fixed it with this. So Nintendo actually reduced the battery size on this despite it being bigger and right now I have absolutely no idea why or how they did that. Apparently you get the same battery life out of it, but it's kind of hard to believe. So we have...

Two tri-point screws over there. We'll grab our screwdriver and the yo-bit. And we'll go ahead and unscrew this guy and see what's inside. Hopefully this just opens right up and we have no surprises. We might have some hidden screws. This is actually the night that it got released so nobody really knows how to open these yet so I'm just figuring it out. My editor actually got to wait and line at a game stop at 1 a.m. to pick this up. There was a line at 1 a.m. for this device so the hype is there. Okay, so Nintendo's hiding screws now Underneath this this comes straight off. It's just held down with adhesive We have another tripod screw and then a Phillips screw. I don't like how this is starting off I don't know why Nintendo is hiding screws. It's not a huge deal, but it's just annoying General rule up them when you're working on a device if it's not opening There's probably a screw you missed or some adhesive or something just look around be careful don't force anything there we go Still getting some resistance. Oh, been it up. This looks very different and very strange. Right away, we can see the battery and this is what I assume is the vibration motor, but everything else is kind of tucked away under. We'll go ahead and disconnect the battery, disconnect the vibration motor. That's a pretty large vibration motor and the haptic feedback on this device felt really good while setting it up. This is why let's see how easy it is to remove the battery So looks like we have two Phillips screws down here on screw it's still not free well on the screw the one up here now we can remove the button that releases the joycon and Continue unscrewing because the battery is not yet free and the battery is loose But it's also connected to the ZR button. So that's why we couldn't get it off earlier Unclip this disconnect the rail on clip this side

Now we finally have the battery removed. So a bit more complicated than I'd like, but it's removable. So we remove the foam on the battery, but we still can't see how many milliamp hours the battery is, but I think it's pretty cool. It has the tendo on it. It's a nice little branded battery. We can try prying up on it. So these are usually glued down. You can see Nintendo hasn't changed the way they placed the battery on. And there it is. It says that it's 500 million power which is smaller than the previous one like I said earlier the previous one was 525 million power so somehow they got away with putting in a smaller battery This is really good though, and I love Nintendo for doing this so their joysticks are always modular so you can easily replace them instead of soldering on the new one But hopefully they made some upgrades to this one and it won't drift as much. It doesn't want to come out. We're gonna have to remove the entire board first. We got more of these black screws. We're gonna go through those. It looks like you do have to remove pretty much everything to get to the joysticks though, which sucks because this is modular and you'd hope you could just pull them out. But no, you gotta take apart the entire controller. Still, it's great that you can replace these without soldering. Finally, we can remove the board. and this is its own modular component, which is great. This is the main board for the JoyCon. We got Side A, Side B, we have all the buttons, and we have the MediaTek chip. We'll remove the joystick. So this is the Nintendo Switch 1 joystick, and this is the Nintendo Switch 2 joystick.

You can see they have this little frame above it. I guess to prevent dirt and debris from entering the joystick and kind of messing it up. It does look different. So they probably did make some changes. Hopefully they made some improvements. The good thing about this though is that it is modular. So if and when it does break, you can replace it, which is a plus. I almost forgot we do have the newcomer this year. We have the C-Blin, which is for chat. guys be nice to each other okay? Before I put the rail back on we have four screws here and I'm gonna remove them because I want to see if we can replace individual components on here because this might be a failure point for this new switch and what would happen if your optical sensor stop working? Could you go in and replace it individually without having to buy this whole assembly? Damn! This just attacked me so if you're ever opening this rail be very careful because there is a spring attached to this and it will attack you if you're not careful. So inside the rail this just comes right off. It's all in one piece. You can easily remove it and replace it as long as you're aware of the spring. So the buttons are all attached to the same board and so is the optical sensor. So you can't really replace those individually. You have to replace this whole thing unless you know how to solder of course. And there are the metal buttons. This didn't really feel like metal on the outside, but we turned it around. You can definitely see that it is metal. It looks to be steel. Putting the controller back together is a little more difficult than I bargained for, especially the eject button. It's very hard to put in place with the spring. I did get it all back together though, and everything seems to be working, but it's time to tear this guy down.

So in the last generation, the switch is rear panel just comes right off if you unscrew all the screws holding it in. So that's what we're going to do. And we have one fill-up screw at the top here because they put hidden screws in the controller. I'm sure there's hidden screws on this guy because I only unscrewed three. So we have two more screws here, both tri-wing screws. I think now that we have the screws removed, we should be able to pry up on the back and get this back plate off. Nope, the back plate doesn't seem to want a budge, which means there's still some hidden screws somewhere. We're gonna go ahead and heat this up because this looks like a sticker, try and peel it off and see if there's any hidden screws under it. It kind of feels like a tamper sticker. Oh, yep. We have a whole load of screws. Very annoying that Nintendo hid these and we're just gonna quickly do the same thing for the other side. With those screws removed, we should be able to just pop this right off and there we go. We have the back plate removed. So if you ever wanted to replace any of these buttons or the kickstand, This is how you do it. You can get a whole new back plate or you can just get the kickstand unscrew this and attach a new kickstand here. We'll just put this aside. And there we go. That is the inside of the Nintendo Switch. We still can't see the board just yet, but we do have a bunch of antenna cables. We have the fan and we have the micro SD slot. We'll unscrew and get this metal plate off. Now we can remove this component. It just looks like a piece of plastic, but it's not. There's actually pins on here. It's probably an antenna of some sort. This is for sure an antenna because it's attached to an antenna cable.

This device now supports WiFi 6. There's just a lot of antenna cables though. Everything's removed, so we should be able to just lift this up and there it is. The Nintendo Switch 2. Why does the battery look smaller than the last gen? We'll get right into it with a comparison between the old one and the new one. So the battery is actually larger despite it looking smaller. It's a 5,220mAh battery while this one is 4,310mAh. The overall layout of the device seems to be about the same as the switch one. Everything's just kind of bigger and obviously you have the extra USB-C port. The speakers on here look so much better than these ones. These ones were terrible. The USB-C port on the switch, the top one, at least. Looks reinforced, it looks really strong. I'm not sure about the bottom, we'll see that in a little bit, but on the old switch, this was a common failure point. We do a lot of these USB-C port replacements here at the shop. Let's put this away and dive a little bit deeper into the switch too. We'll go ahead and disconnect the battery connector, which is right over here. Just pop that right up. Now obviously at some point, you're gonna have to replace the battery, and to do that, you're gonna have to remove it. So let's see if Nintendo prepared us for that. Is that a pull tab? Take some tweezers. I don't think it is. So we're just gonna just standard method, grab some alcohol, and we're going to pour a few drops under the battery. Now we'll grab a spudger, which that in here, this battery is thick. We removed the battery. So definitely wasn't a bolt-up. They just used a sheet of adhesive on the back. They don't really care about you replacing your battery. We'll put that over there.

So if this is a common point of failure, we're gonna see how easy it is to replace if it's replaceable at all. It does look like there's a connector right over here. There's a flex cable coming right out connecting over here. So if we disconnect this and pull this flex cable up here, looks like it is wedged under this plastic frame. So let's see what happens when unscrew. Remove that, that frees up the flex cable can this come out. Like a little maze. And it does come right out. So you can replace this fairly easily. If you want to put it back in, you just have to slide it through and it looks like the other side is exactly the same. Anyway, I want to take a look at the motherboard now, so we're going to unscrew everything we can see and get this board out. While I was unscrewing, I noticed something really weird. So there's a little bit of liquid metal underneath the battery. Not sure how that got there or what went wrong during the manufacturing process of this device, but That shouldn't be there. Pop off the heatsink and the fan. It looks like the motherboard is now loose and there it is. The USB-C port on the bottom does also look reinforce. There's literally a metal plate here to make sure that it stays in place, which is really cool of Nintendo. This was really, really annoying, so I'm glad they fixed that. There's a lot of metal plates here that we can just pop off, so let's go ahead and do that. We now have a good look at the custom NVIDIA Tegra processor, and we have our RAM. Let's move on to the other side of the board where we can see

The NAND right over here, this is a 256 gigabytes. The overall layout of the board is significantly different from the past generation, so any issues we might have had with that generation may or may not transfer over to this generation. It's hard to tell because of how different this board is. We're probably just going to have to figure out the hard way. over time and see what issues kind of pop up. Last but not least, we're gonna see how difficult a skier in replacement is on the Switch 2. We're gonna use a plastic pry and card to slice through that adhesive. We're making pretty good progress, but it is taking a bit more time than I'm used to. And the display is removed. That was not easy and kind of scary, but the only reason you'd be removing your display is if it was already broken. You probably don't have anything to worry about. Overall, in terms of repairability for this switch 2, it's about the same as the last one, minus the hidden screws. Not sure why Nintendo had to add that, completely unnecessary and completely unwelcome. The charging ports being reinforced on the board is great, but it would be better if they were completely modular, so you can easily replace them without soldering. The battery needs pull tabs, Nintendo please for the next gen, add some pull tabs for this, but uh... I'm excited to put this back together and start using it. I hope you guys enjoyed this video. Don't forget to leave a like, subscribe, and hit that bell button. And I will see you guys soon. Very soon. Peace.